Book Review: Gifts of the Blood By Vicki Keire

A dying brother. A young man with golden planes of light on his back. A blind chess wizard. An insane angelic kidnapper in flamboyant red leather. A town with more secrets than stoplights. A cat that talks to spirits. Waking up with eyes the color of moonlight. 

Before her world tilts towards impossible, Caspia Chastain thinks the only strange thing about her is that she sometimes draws the future. Only her brother Logan, fighting his cancer diagnosis, knows what she can do. When she draws a man surrounded by brilliant light, dark wings, and frightening symbols, she can only hope the vision won’t come true. 

But when a stranger named Ethan appears, determined to protect Caspia and her brother from dangers he won’t explain, she’s not sure what to think. Strangers almost never come to Whitfield. They certainly don’t follow her around, frightening her one moment and treating her like glass the next. And they certainly don’t look exactly like the subject of her most violent drawing. 

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Angel's Edge Book 1, Gifts of the Blood is about a girl who sometimes draws the future. She has no idea how or why she has this gift, and most of the time, when her gift manifests itself, it freaks her out. She has never embraced the gift, but fears it tremendously. When one of her drawings all of a sudden comes to life, her life turns into one huge roller coaster with both "good and bad" guys trying to kidnap her.

I highly enjoyed Gifts of the Blood. The idea of a strong, drop dead angel watching out for me and my family is a great idea, especially if that gorgeous angel happens to fall in love with me and be completely and utterly devoted to me. Well, maybe not. I do tend to enjoy the right to choose, and having someone that loves me but has not choice may not be the best thing.

While the storyline is well developed it did leave me with a couple of questions that never did get answered. When Caspia was in one of her classes, she drew a fighting scene between light and dark Fallen angels with her caught in the middle. Now I could be wrong, but I don't remember this particular scene ever actually playing out. The drawing was a prophecy and Caspia did say that sometimes they never actually manifest themselves, or maybe Mrs. Keire has a plan to use that particular scene in a future book. Only time will tell. All in all, a very great read. I hope you all enjoy it as much as I did.

Sock Monkey Maddness

Sock monkeys have taken over!! Just kidding... almost. I have had several customers love my sock monkey hats and have requested them in various styles. I first started making the hats using this redheart pattern as a guide, but the more I've made, the better they have become. I have made the hats in brown/red, gray/pink, gray/blue, and gray/black. I haven't decided which one I like most though.

I started the hat with the basic hat pattern found here.

I used 3 colors, light (white), accent (pink), and dark (gray). Also needed 2 white buttons for eyes, tapestry needle and "H" hook.

On the toddler hats, I started with the light color for 6 rnds, then finished off and rejoined the accent color for 2 rounds. Finished off pink and rejoined gray to finish the hat. When I do hats with ear flaps i actually shorten the hat by 2 rnds off the basic pattern because I like to finish the hats off with 2 finishing rounds of sc. I think it gives the hat a much neater look.

Rnds 1-6, white, Rnds 7-8 Pink, Rnds 9-17 Gray.

I attach the ear flaps with Gray, but I have seen variations where the earflaps are the accent color or even the lighter color. Once both earflaps have been finished, I do 1 rnd of gray sc and 1 rnd of pink sc.

Mouth:

Now for the fun part. For the mouth, use the accent color (pink) and ch 9. 

Rnd 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and the next 6. 3 sc in the end ch and turn work to continue sc on other side of ch and sc in next 6 chs, 2 sc in last ch, join light color and finish off accent color.

Rnd 2: ch 1. 2sc in joining st. sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in each of last 2 sts, join, ch 1.

Rnd 3: sc in joining st 2 sc in next stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, *sc, 2 sc* 3 times, sc in next 6 sc, repeat from * to * 2 more times, join and finish off leaving a long tail for sewing mouth to hat. 

Ears: (make 2)

With accent color, start with a magic circle loop and ch 2

Rnd 1: 15 dc in loop, join ch 2

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each dc around, join, finish off.

Rnd 3: join with dark color in any dc, ch 1. Hdc in each dc around (30 hdc), join and finish off leaving a long tail for sewing ear to hat.

All individual parts for hat are finished. Time to decorate!

Finishing:

Center mouth to hat on front of hat just above 1st sc finishing rnd. Sew mouth with left over tail. (helps to use a little craft glue to hold piece in place.)

Sew ears to hat vertically between hat rnds 13 and 16 above where the earflaps belong. I like to sew through the edge then back to the accent color to give a little more stability.

For the braids, cut 5 strands of each color (total of 15 strands) about 18 inches long and attach through loops of last rnd of sc on each side of earflaps and braid. I like to separate the colors.

Sew button eyes to face just above the mouth below the accent color rnds. 

That's pretty much it. If you like you can also create a "poof" ball to go on top. Good luck and enjoy!

Daisy Doll

I found this fantastic pattern for a doll called Pupa Daisy, (at least that's what Google Translator says). The Page is in Russian and the only way I can find it is by clicking on my Pinterest page. I decided that I would share the pattern and the link for the original page for anyone interested. Now I haven't made this beautiful doll but i do plan on it very soon. I'm hoping this will make it easier for me to make the doll. Here is the link to the original site. Again, this is not my pattern, but I am sharing it mostly so I can actually locate the pattern in the future. Please stop by the original site to see more of their wonderful creations.

http://sunduchokruk.ru/post183732379

Pupa Daisy

 

Source:  http://iknitting.ru/content/kukolka-margaritka

 

Bottom of the picture and shemka

The complexity of the product: 

for professionals

You will need:
• yarn solid color (optional) for the body and the remains of colored yarn for hair and clothing,
suitable hook •,
• filler (or sintepon holofayber),
• glue,
• needle stitching with a large eye,
eyes • ready or beads, cilia (you can buy these in the store cosmetics overhead).
yarn I used colors: flesh, white, pink, lilac, magenta, brown and a little red mouth.
Abbreviations used:
a. § - air loop
sc - column without nakida
pst - polustolbik with nakida
CLOs - column with nakida
ss4n - column with four nakida
ss - connecting column

HEAD
knit yarn solid color.
1st row: 6 sc in ring amigurumi
2 row 6 of increases (12)
Row 3: (sc, increase) - 6 times (18)
Row 4: (2 sc, increase) - 6 times (24 )
Row 5: (3 sc, increase) - 6 times (30)
6th row: (4 sc, increase) - 6 times (36)
7th row: (5 sc, increase) - 6 times (42)
8 row: ( 6 sc, increase) - 6 times (48)
Row 9: (7 sc, increase) - 6 times (54)
10 series (8 sc, increase) - 6 times (60)
11 - 23 range: 60 sc
24 series (8 sc, sc tog) - 6 times (54)
25 series (7 sc, sc tog) - 6 times (48)
26 series: (6 sc, sc tog) - 6 times (42)
27 series: (5 sc, sc tog) - 6 times (36)
28 series: (4 sc, sc tog) - 6 times (30)
29 series: (3 sc, sc tog) - 6 times (24)
30 series: (2 sc, sc tog) - 6 times (18)
31 series: (1 sc, sc tog) - 6 times (12)

Next do enought tightening face. Utjazhki best done flossing, but if not, then you can take a thin c / b flesh-colored yarn to match the head.
inserts a needle into the hole uncovered head and deduce roughly between 16 and 17 from the top next, then enter through a number and print it opening the head, strongly contractible and knot. Similarly do enought tightening for the second eye, departing from the first nine loops (the picture is marked in red). Then again inserts a needle into the hole of the head, we derive in the hole next to the sink marks for the first eye, enter into the hole next to the sink marks for the second eye and print head in the hole (marked green in the picture), and strongly contractible knot. Ends hide in the head, if necessary, fills.
Further, in my attachment of buttons (see picture) to head stood straight, but then still sew, because after we do hairstyle doll head can hang out.
If you do not making of buttons fastening, simply cover the hole and hide the tail.

BODY
Knitting yarn white.
1st row: 6 sc in ring amigurumi
2 row 6 of increases (12)
Row 3: (sc, increase) - 6 times (18)
4-5 range: 18 sc
Execute button-fastening the hinge (see pictures).
6th row: (2 sc, increase) - 6 times (24)
7th row: 24 sc
8 series: (3 sc, increase) - 6 times (30)
Row 9: 30 sc
10 series: (4 sc, gain) - 6 times (36)
11 series: 36 sc
12 series: (5 sc, increase) - 6 times (42)
13-14 range: 42 sc
15 series: (6 sc, increase) - 6 times (48)
16 row: 48 sc
17 series (7 sc, increase) - 6 times (54)
18ryad 54 sc
Go to the pink thread
19 row: 54 sc
20 series (8 sc, increase) - 6 times (60)
21 range: 60 sc
22 series: (4 sc, sc tog) - 10 times (50)
23 series: (3 sc, sc tog) - 10 times (40)
24 series: (2 sc, sc tog) - 10 times (30)
25 number: (4 sc, sc tog) - 5 times (24)
26 series: (3 sc, sc tog) - 5 times (20)
27 series: (2 sc, sc tog) - 5 times (16)
28 series: dec 8 times
end of the thread hiding inside the trunk.

HANDS
knit yarn solid color.
1st row: 6 sc in ring amigurumi
2 row 6 of increases (12)
Row 3: (sc, increase) - 6 times (18)
4 - 5 range: 18 sc
6th row: (7 sc, sc tog) - 2 times (16)
7th row: 16 sc
8 row: 6 sc, 4 CCH one vertex in next st, 9 sc
Row 9: (6 sc, sc tog) - 2 times (14)
10 row: 14 sc
11 series: (5 sc, sc tog) - 2 times (12)
Go to the thread white
12 row: 12 sc
13 row: 12 sc into back loop
13 - 21 range: 12 sc
cam stuffed tightly, and then at your discretion may be tight, but you can not fill all. Leave a long thread for sewing, folding handle in half and sew. Attach white thread where knitting into back and knit quilling - 3. n, 1 sc, ponytail hiding in the pen.
Similarly knit second hand.

FEET
Socks:
Knitting yarn white.
1st row: 6 sc in ring amigurumi
2 row 6 of increases (12)
Row 3: (sc, increase) - 6 times (18)
Row 4: (2 sc, increase) - 6 times (24)
Row 5: (3 sc, increase) - 6 times (30)
6 -11 row: 30 sc
12 series (13 sc, sc tog) - 2 times (28)
13 row: 28 sc
14 series (12 sc, sc tog) - 2 times (26)
15 row: 26 sc
16 series (11 sc, sc tog) - 2 times (24)
17 row: 24 sc
18 series (10 sc, sc tog) - 2 times (22)
19 row: 22 sc
20 series (9 sc, sc tog) - 2 times (20), fills densely filled
21 rows (sc tog) - 6 times, the hole pull, ponytail hide.
Now soled recruit white yarn and knit 15 n up:
1 - 6 row 15 sc
7 series: go to a flesh-colored thread 15 sc into back loop
8 - 19 range: 15 sc
20 series: go to thread pink 15 sc
21 rows: a. § overturn and knit in the opposite direction by the front wall of the loop, (4 sc, increase) - 3 times (18)
22-25 row: 18 sc
26 series: Ruche (3 ce sc) - 18 times
Fold in half leg , sew and leave the thread end authentication for subsequent sewing to the body.
quilling Making white yarn both hands.
Similarly knit the second leg.

SHOES
knit yarn crimson.
knit sole of the scheme's

Row 5: 43 sc into back loop
6-9 range: 43 sc
10 range: 8 sc, 2 pst, pst ubavok 8, 2 pst, sc 15 (35)
11 Range: 8 sc, pst 12, 15 sc (35 )
12 Range: 8 sc, 2 pst, pst 4 dec, pst 2, 9 sc, sc dec 3 (28)
We put the shoe on the foot doll, attach the thread side, 8. etc., on the other hand ss shoes, turn and knit in the opposite direction 8 pst, fix the thread, tails hide.

FNL
knit yarn solid color.
1st row: 6 sc in ring amigurumi
2nd row: 6 sc
Leave a thread for sewing.
Nose can sew directly on the face.

EARS
knit yarn solid color.
ears I always snapped right on the head, for this eye level digress about 9 sc, attach thread: 3. n Lift, 8 CCH. Tail that stayed I introduce above / below 2 rows behind the ear and deduce the second tail that remained after we thread attached to the head, I caught on the third temperature. lifting loop to introduce 2 rows above / below and deduce the hole the same as the first tail, knot and hide the two tail to the head, a very neat and beautiful.

DRESS
Coquette:
Knitting yarn crimson.
Gaining 26. §
1st row: 1. n Lift, 25 sc
2 row: 6. § lifting ss4n 5, 2. § 10 ss4n, 2. § 6 ss4n
3 series: 1. n Lift, 25 sc
Next knit skirt purple yarn, here's the description.

HAIR
Yarn brown.
Cut yarn required length (depending on how long you want to do doll hair), in my version about 54 cm, I was wound on a book on the long side.
Begin thread to attach to the head as the fringe, starting from the top and moving down. Introduce hook towards the top, folded in half hairs cling to the midway, stretch over the head, and then we catch both hairs and pulled through the loop and tighten. So fill the entire head, relying on the natural hairline, I have a lot of hair so I did back up to the middle ear.

Sew head to the body (if necessary), sew the arms and legs. Hand sew between about 4 and 5 near the trunk. Legs sew approximately between 22 and 23 near the trunk, then the doll will sit. Making doll hair, decorate and dress shoes, make out the face. At the last moment I stick embroider eyes and mouth.

    

Posted by Janny on Wed, 08/03/2011 - 18:52

Basic Hat Crochet Pattern

I have been making some changes on my blog and while in the process I accidentally deleted all of my hat posts. This was definitely one of those "bang head on wall" moments. So, I guess you all get the privilege of me blogging about them again, plus I am hoping to actually get all of my hats on here this time. Since I am starting at the beginning I thought I would share with you the basic hat pattern that i use on most of my hats. I have noticed that some hat makers will only create a pattern for 1 particular size with no way to clear way to make the hat bigger or smaller. This just doesn't cut it for me. I have also noticed on some patterns the hats tend to be a bit small. I like my hats to run a little big, so they actually fit and in the case of kids, the hats can be worn more than just a few  months. I have also noticed that some hat patterns the hats tended to "poof" (for a better word) at the crown. I didn't like that. I like my hats to be able to lie almost flat when not on a head. So with a few modifications, and my OCD kicking in, I created a basic pattern that I use for almost all of my hats. The change from one size to the next is relatively easy. I have the hat figured out for infant sizes, but I haven't written them down yet. That is on my to-do list.

Hat Size

Toddler Size-

With h hook,

Rnd 1: make magic circle and make 10 sc in circle and pull tight. Join

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each sc around, join

Rnd 3: hdc, 2 hdc around, join

Rnd 4: hdc in next 2, 2 hdc* Around, join

Rnd 5: hdc in next 7, 2hdc in next* around, join

Rnd 6: hdc in next 8, 2 hdc in next* around, join

Rnd 7: hdc in next 9, 2 hdc* around, join

Rnd 8-16: hdc in each around, join. On rnd 16 finish off.

Child Size

With h hook,

Rnd 1: make magic circle and make 10 sc in circle and pull tight. Join

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each sc around, join

Rnd 3: hdc, 2 hdc around, join

Rnd 4: hdc in next 2, 2 hdc* Around, join

Rnd 5: hdc in next 3, 2 hdc* around, join

Rnd 6: hdc in next 9, 2 hdc* around, join

Rnd 7: hdc in next 10, 2hdc* around, join

Rnd 8: hdc in next 11, 2 hdc* around, join

Rnd 9-18: hdc in each around, join. On rnd 18 finish off.

Adult Hat -

With h hook,

Rnd 1: make magic circle and make 10 sc in circle and pull tight. Join

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each sc around, join

Rnd 3: hdc, 2 hdc around, join

Rnd 4: hdc in next 2, 2 hdc* Around, join

Rnd 5: hdc in next 3, 2 hdc* around, join

Rnd 6: hdc in next 4, 2 hdc* around, join

Rnd 7: hdc in next 11, 2 hdc* around, join

Rnd 8: hdc in next 12, 2 hdc* around, join

Rnd 9-22: hdc in each around, join. On rnd 22 finish 

Ear Flaps

For toddler hats:

Row 1: skip 7 stitches from the joined stitch and rejoin in next stitch. 11 sc, ch 1 turn.

Row 2: sc2tog, 7 sc, sc2tog, ch 1 turn

Row 3: sc in each across

Row 4: sc2tog, 5 sc, sc2tog, ch 1 turn

Row 5: sc in each across

Row 6: sc2tog, 3 sc, sc2tog, ch 1 turn

Row 7: sc in each across

Row 8: sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, finish off.

For child hats:

Row 1: skip 9 stitches from the joined stitch and rejoin in next stitch. 11 sc, ch 1 turn.

Row 2: sc2tog, 7 sc, sc2tog, ch 1 turn

Row 3: sc in each across

Row 4: sc2tog, 5 sc, sc2tog, ch 1 turn

Row 5: sc in each across

Row 6: sc2tog, 3 sc, sc2tog, ch 1 turn

Row 7: sc in each across

Row 8: sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, finish off.

For Adult hats:

Row 1: skip 9 stitches from the joined stitch and rejoin in next stitch. 13 sc, ch 1 turn.

Row 2: sc2tog, 9 sc, sc2tog, ch 1 turn

Row 3: sc in each across

Row 4: sc2tog, 7 sc, sc2tog, ch 1 turn

Row 5: sc in each across

Row 6: sc2tog, 5 sc, sc2tog, ch 1 turn

Row 7: sc in each across

Row 8: sc2tog, 3 sc, sc2tog, ch 1 turn

Row 9: sc in each across

Row 10: sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, finish off.

With this pattern, all sorts of hats can be made. I hope this is helpful for anyone wanting to make a basic hat.

Here are a few examples of hats that I have made with this pattern, just changed the look with either various colors or decorations.